Tag Archives: Hawaii

Nancy Gets the Geckos

This time the shots I am sharing are not my own.  I was there when they were taken but these were taken by Nancy.  I was traveling light with one camera and a wide angle lens as we walked along the trails to the falls and Nancy was carrying her camera.  It is a Nikon P900 and that thing has a phenomenal zoom range.  When I saw the geckos on the leaves of the trees, there was no way I was going to be able to get a shot that showed anything of them given how small they were and the distance to them.

Nancy, on the other hand, had an ideal opportunity to get some shots of them.  There were multiple geckos on the plants, some on their own, others together and some others chasing the first ones out of the way.  They move very slowly for a while and then burst into action.  You do end up with some shots of empty leaves as they spring away just before the shutter is pressed.  However, she still got a number of them and their bright coloration really shows up well.

Moisture on the Lichen

Rain forest conditions do tend to mean lots of moisture in the air.  That much moisture means perfect conditions for the growth of lichen.  The lichen do a great job of collecting the moisture from the air to keep them well watered.  The way the water drops form on the surface of the plant can be really interesting.  Just a small vibration would send them dropping to the plant life below but, for now, they were safe.

Roger Goes Fishing

One evening, while having dinner near the beach, we saw a flash of wings as a bird flew down to the water’s edge and landed.  It was a heron.  He was standing on the rocks as the waves washed in.  Every once in a while, he would catch a fish and then walk away from the water before dealing with his meal.  We talked to the staff about him and they told us he was a regular feature every evening.  They had even named him Roger.  Each night we came by to see if Roger was there and, sure enough, there he was.  Same spot each time, just standing and waiting for dinner to come to him.  On our first night he was joined by a manta ray that came in very close inshore but, sadly, he never showed up again while I was there with a camera.  Roger was far more reliable though.

Into the Heart of the World

The biggest thing that made me want to go to Big Island was volcanoes.  I have seen plenty of photos and video of volcanic activity but I have never seen it for real.  I wanted to try and experience the awesome power welling up from the heart of the earth.  Awesome is a word that gets pretty free use but I think when it comes to the violence that the layer of energy just below the crust of the earth can produce, awesome is a word that is entirely justified.

The south end of Big Island is the one that is most active volcanically.  Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea are both sitting quietly at the moment but neither of them is considered done.  Mauna Loa has erupted relatively recently.  However, the one that is playing at the moment is Kilauea.  It has been busy erupting for a long time now.  We checked it out by helicopter – the most easygoing way to see things.  We took in two locations of activity.

The first was an open route to the inside of the planet.  It has been active for a long time and has a visitor center.  Apparently, you used to be able to walk close to the edge of the hole as a tourist.  A parking lot is still visible.  However, a violent outburst a few years ago suggested that this location was no longer safe.  Now the visitor’s center is as far as you can go.  There is a circular hole in the larger crater in which the lava bubbles.  The level rises and falls daily and often will come over the lip into the larger crater.  While we were over it things were a bit below the lip but you could still see the heat just below the surface of the lava.  Because the air cools the lava quickly, you rarely see the molten lava is it is usually under a crust.  Still very hot, but not liquid.

We then headed off to another area of activity.  Here there was a rip in the surface from which gases were billowing.  As you looked through the various holes, you could see into the heart of things and the glow from the lava was impressive.  The color was intense and you could sense the heat within.  As the lava emerged from various fissures in the surface, it would cool to make a new crust.  A metallic looking surface would appear.  Occasionally, the lava would bubble forward and, oh so briefly, there would be a red glow on the surface.  Then it would cool and add a bit more to the metallic surface.

Big Island was a constant stream of references to the incredible forces that had formed the island.  The lava fields covered much of the island.  Even on the beaches, you had to be cautious of the lava chunks on the sand.  My delicate feet did not like the lava.  However, nothing could match the raw power that was on display at the volcanoes.  I was certainly not disappointed having focused so much on them in planning the trip.  Nature is amazingly powerful.

The Secret Beach

Being lucky is so cool.  I don’t know how many excellent opportunities I have missed without realizing it (that’s the benefit of not realizing it), but I have been fortunate to stumble into some good stuff.  We were driving down towards Hilo when we came to an overlook above a bay.  We pulled over and walked up to the edge to see a great view down into a lovely looking bay.  The waves were crashing in from the ocean and the place looked cool.  We were so close to moving on after a few minutes.

Just before we turned to go, we saw a couple of people down on a headland in the bay.  We weren’t in a hurry so we figured we would head down the trail and see what was there.  The area was butted up against a botanic garden which we weren’t planning on visiting so we knew we wouldn’t go far.  As we got to the bottom of the trail, we came to an entrance to the garden with a security guard sitting watch over who came through.  Then we saw a small side track alongside the fence heading to the water.  A short excursion brought us to a beach.  The waves were crashing up on the shore by our feet and everything was covered over with a dense canopy of trees.  A little climb took me out onto a spur of rock with the waves crashing either side.  A rocky cliff face was on one side and the waves were striking it violently.

There was a small blowhole in the rock near where I stood.  As the waves came in just right, the water would fire out of the hole.  Other times nothing would happen or there would be a small gurgle.  I talked to a couple of guys out there who obviously knew the place well.  They pointed out how far out you could go without getting completely drenched by the waves.  More importantly, it looked like the sort of place that you could get caught out by a wave easily.  If you went into the water, I suspect it could have ended badly.

Forget that though.  The place was gorgeous.  When the guys left, we were the only ones there.  The waves were pounding the shore, the scenery was stunning and you felt like you were the only person in the world who knew it was there.  It was hard to break away.  We stood there for ages.  Sometimes the waves would come that bit further up the beach than normal and they would wash over my feet.  No point in objecting.  Just stand there and enjoy it.  Of course, we had to leave eventually.  Those visiting the botanic garden had a promontory a short distance away but they were really not in a good position to enjoy the experience because they were on one of the nicer parts.  We met a couple coming down the trail as we left.  They looked ready to turn back and had not seen where we had gone.  We made sure to explain where they needed to go.  I hope they liked it.

What a Tree!

Rain forest conditions produce plants that are uniquely able to exploit the environment.  This tree was like something out of a fantasy movie.  I think it was one plant but, to be honest, there would be no obvious way to tell where one ended and another started if it proved to be two or more.  The branches and roots were spread everywhere.  It really did seem like something that should come alive at some point and just envelope the unwary traveler.  It was dark and creepy underneath its canopy.  I found myself fascinated with it and looking at it from every different direction.  The sad part was that it was really hard to find a shot that really conveyed the feeling you had when there.

Turtles at Rest

The reef by our hotel was home to some green turtles.  They seemed to have developed a good schedule.  Morning was feeding time.  They would go out on the reef and spend their time nibbling away at the plant life growing on the rocks and coral.  By early afternoon they would have pulled themselves up onto the beach in an area the hotel had fenced off to keep people away.  There they would sleep all afternoon and into the night.  Come by during the afternoon and you could see them.  In the evening, lights on the beach would be switched on and you could still make them out a little way above the waterline.

No pictures from me of them in action.  I saw plenty of them while snorkeling on the reef and sometimes they would come and check me out.  You are meant to avoid disturbing them but when they come after you, it is hardly your fault.  However, I did kill my GoPro while out snorkeling so the photo opportunities were lost and will have to remain as memories.  Shots of them on the beach were a lot easier though so that is what we have here.

Cinder Cones

The active volcanoes are cool to see but the landscape on the Big Island is dotted with plenty examples of where the earth has had a previous effort at disgorging its contents.  The mountains of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea look exactly like you would expect a volcano to look with a nice big flat conical structure.  However, the eruptions have not all come from the top of the mountain.  There have been regular eruptions from weak points along the surface of the mountains and these eruptions have left their mark in more ways than just the lava flows scarring the slopes below them.

When the lava breaks out, it hardens as it reaches the surface.  The deposits around the opening grow and you create a mini version of the mountain.  These are called cinder cones.  They are scattered all around the landscape and each was the site of a previous eruption.  The center is hollow where the lava flowed out and sometimes the weakest side may have collapsed to leave the cone a little more exposed.  The color of the rock can be pretty dramatic too.  They look so benign now but at their most active peak, these places would have been spewing forth huge quantities of red hot molten rock.  They would not have been a good place to be.

Goat Families Stripping the Vegetation

The Big Island has a large population of wild goats.  All of the larger animals on the island were introduced by the visiting peoples at some point and the goats obviously got well established.  You can come across them at all sorts of places as you travel the island.  I saw them a number of times but the one time I got to get shots of them was while waiting for my helicopter trip across the island.  They hang around the landing pads that Sunshine Helicopters use a lot and, according to our pilot, they are not always too enthusiastic about vacating the pads when the helicopters arrive!

While we were waiting, they were certainly not shy.  There were both adult goats and some kids in the group that showed up.  The kids were clearly more timid and they would not go anywhere until the adults had been there a while to show that it was safe to do so.  They would stay back in the bushes for a while before coming out into the open.  As soon as there was any disturbance, they would jump back to somewhere that felt safer.

It was quite interesting to see how the group behaved when they first showed up.  The whole group hung back in the bushes for a while.  Gradually, as they realized that the people that were hanging around were not a threat, they became more comfortable in getting out in the open.  Anything that disturbed the environment would get them back out of the way but they would soon become comfortable again and come back out.  Indeed, we were soon so used to them that we were a bit bored with their intrusion too and we both went about our way with little concern for the other.

Blowhole

Further north from Dragon’s Teeth you round the northern tip of the island.  Here the coastline is very rocky and dramatic.  While there are visitors, it seems that a lot less people come this far around the coast.  However, there is something to bring up the visitors and that is a blowhole.  You can stand higher up on the cliffs and watch the blowhole do its thing or you can walk further down.

A few people did get closer in but I decided to stay further out.  With the violence of the waves crashing up on the shore and the occasional eruption from the blowhole plus the wind buffeting you, the senses were getting plenty to work with.  Getting dragged in by the water was not necessary for me to enhance the experience!